Dear Andy,

We have a six-year-old Rottweiler mix. Both my husband and I work during the day. When we are not home, Rufus is chained up outside in our back yard. He has a doghouse, under a tree and a water bowl clipped to the side of the doghouse so that he cannot spill it. He does not bark and appears to not mind this arrangement that we have established since we got him as a pup. We now have new neighbors who bought the house next door. Almost immediately after they moved in, they came over to inform us that chaining our dog up all day is cruel. We disagreed. They reported us to the ‘dog police’ who responded, checked out the situation and declared it ‘legal.’ Now we hear through the neighborhood grapevine that the neighbors are threatening to kidnap Rufus while we are gone and place him with a proper home. We plan on installing surveillance cameras and informing them of their presence. Do you think we are wrong?

J.K. in Catawba

Dear J.K.,

I have never been one to tie or tether a dog. I personally don’t think it is a good life for a dog. Dogs that are tethered become bored; can learn bad habits like barking and digging. They can become aggressive and can get hurt by getting wound up in the tether. They are really limited in their ability to move about freely and get adequate, quality exercise. When you take on a dog, you owe it a quality life which includes the best of food and medical care, exercise, playtime, a proper environment and love. If one cannot do these things, one should not have a dog. You can afford a security system? Why not put that money to better use and step up to the plate and build a proper dog environment with a nice roofed fence and a proper surface that can be kept clean. Your neighbors will be happy, you will feel better, and I know Rufus will be happier. He deserves it.

Dear Andy,

Our friend was recently deployed to Afghanistan. He will be gone at least one year. He has asked us to consider adopting his Pomeranian Fudge as he anticipates future deployments. We really want to help out this guy but the dog is not reliably housebroken. He puts down doggie wee pads in the kitchen so Fudge can go to the bathroom when he wants. This is just not acceptable to us. Can a 4-year-old dog be retrained to use the great outdoors instead of the kitchen floor as its bathroom?

C. J. In Troutman

Dear C.J.,

Absolutely, but it will take a commitment of persistence and consistency. First you must figure out what goes in and when it comes out. That will determine your schedule. Many people find that it helps to make a chart as a guide. Write down what time Fudge eats and drinks and write down, based upon his intake, what time he will need to go out.

Now comes the training part: Fudge will need to unlearn a behavior (using the bathroom on the pads in the house) and learn a new behavior (using the bathroom outside). This can take some time, maybe two or three months. Remember, it is easier to develop a good habit than it is to change a bad habit. It will help Fudge to learn to go outside by providing a transition. When it is time for Fudge to relieve himself, take him outside along with one of his wee pads. When he uses, reward him. Remember, it may take some time for him to go outside because the situation has changed for him. So have patience. Tell him he is such a good dog … even give him a small treat. (But, remember that what goes in must come out.) You can also put some bells on the door and teach Fudge to hit the bells as a signal that he wants to go out. Soon, Fudge will not go on the floor.

In these times, when most everyone in the house works, many dog owners – especially those who have little dogs – make use of doggie litter boxes. There are all different types. They contain the matter and eliminate odors. If you can’t develop a schedule for Fudge that works, a doggie litter box may be the answer.

I think that helping out your friend in the service by adopting Fudge is a super thing for you to do.

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Dear Andy,

My 20-year-old son bought a couple of German Shepherds three years ago. He promised he would take care of them. Well, he kept that promise for about five minutes.

My son ended up moving to Hawaii and left the dogs with me.

My backyard is large and surrounded by a 5-foot-high brick wall. A new neighbor just moved in next door with two little dogs that these shepherds are eyeing as snacks. Before he left, my son managed to train them to jump the wall, and they ignore me when I call them.

I am afraid they will hurt the little dogs next door. Animal control has already visited and suggested I put up an electric fence. Will this work? I have heard that if they are so inclined they can run right through it.

In the dogs’ defense, they are really sweet and nice in the house.

What should I do?

Thank you,

Pete in Huntersville

Dear Pete,

One of the first options to consider is properly constructed dog kennels designed for large dogs that know how to escape if they care to.

Kennels would allow the dogs to have free outdoor time. They can burn off some energy, keep all involved safe, and you can enjoy their company in the house when it is convenient for you.

The next option, which can be incorporated along with the kennels, budget permitting, is an invisible fence system. Like the kennels, I would have the fence system constructed by an invisible fence specialist. After the fence is installed, I would hire a dog trainer who is experienced with invisible fence training. It does take some time to correctly train the dogs to respect the boundaries and the system. Since your yard is large, the invisible fence can be installed away from your brick wall. It will increase the distance to the neighboring little dogs. The shepherds will not be able to look over the wall and become agitated.

Why not enjoy these dogs? Talk to some dog trainers. Find one you are comfortable with after checking references, of course, and sign up for some training lessons. Most shepherds are very bright, learn quickly and become beloved companions – as long as they understand what you want from them.

Dear Andy,

Can dogs see the images on a television? What I mean is can they tell when a person or a cat or a dog is on the screen? Do they perceive television like we do? Is it like watching out the window and watching the world go by?

Why do I want to know this? I have two dogs. One of them will watch television all day. He doesn’t even have a preference – soaps, reality, Idol, Bounty Hunter. It makes no difference. He likes everything. My other dog acts like the television doesn’t even exist.

I have seen dog DVDs for sale. They claim to help with separation anxiety and are designed to entertain the dog when you are not home. My dogs do not have separation anxiety, but I am just wondering if these DVDs are any good.

Thank you,

Margaret in Statesville

Dear Margaret,

Do dogs watch television? Yes and no. Some dogs love television, and some dogs have absolutely no interest, sort of like people.

What do dogs see on the television? There are so many scientific studies out there that have come to conclusions about dog vision. Most researchers agree that dogs do not perceive the world visually exactly the same as we do. They perceive colors differently. If they were people they would probably need reading glasses. Their night vision is excellent.

Unscientifically, I have seen dogs really enjoy television. And, I have noted that many dogs have preferences. If your dog likes television and has preferences or if he is a boob-tube junkie and will enjoy just about anything, I see no reason in investing in dog DVDs. Let the dog watch regular TV.

Now, I have a question? Any dogs out there enjoying Wii?

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Dear Andy,

We are a happy family of five – me, my husband, two kids – ages 12 & 9 – and Max, a 2-year-old Boxer.

The kids spend a lot of time with Max and have taught him a good number of tricks. They really want him to do a “high five” but are having some trouble in attaining success. Max will shake but they can’t get him to do the “high five” move. Do you have a good method that you are willing to share? The kids would be delighted.

Thank You,

W.W. in Huntersville

Dear W.W.,

There is nothing wrong with tricks but your dog should know basic obedience first. This trick works well with a food reward. If your dog does not work well for food make sure he’s hungry before you begin teaching the high five. Have one of your children sit in a chair with his hand on his leg. Have the dog in front of the child in the chair. Ask dog for his paw, and reward him with food when he does it. The child should begin raising his hand up from the leg, three to four inches at a time. As the hand goes higher, Max will have to come up to reach the hand and get his reward. When he must jump up to reach the hand, hit the bottom of the paw when he tries to shake and say “High Five!” Reward. Continue practicing until he does the move with just the words “High Five.”

Dear Andy,

I just read a blog that talks about a dog named Chase that has been taught to retrieve objects by name. This dog, Chase, knows the name of over 1,000 different toys. I don’t even know the name of that many things. How do I teach my Border Collie, Ajax, to bring me a specific toy by name?

Thanks,

A.J. in Conover

Dear A.J.

As I said, before teaching a dog tricks, it is important to teach real life obedience. Tricks can come later.

If your dog has been obedience trained, training him to do tricks should be fairly easy. You can start by calling a toy or an object by its name. For example, use a wooden spoon and call it ‘spoon’. Hold the dog by the collar, throw the spoon about 10 feet away and say, “Get me the spoon.” Then, let the dog loose and reward him when he brings the spoon back to you. Practice ‘spoon’ fetch 10 times a day for a week or until he is completely reliable.

Now, do the same with another toy or object called rubber ducky. Don’t move forward to anything new until the dog clearly understands the words spoon and rubber ducky.

When you believe the dog knows the two names, move forward with the next step: Put both objects on the ground, and fasten the spoon to the ground. Tell the dog to “Get Rubber Ducky.” If he goes for the spoon, he will not have the gratification of bringing it to you and getting the reward because it is fastened to the ground. He should then go for the Rubber Ducky, if he did not initially. If he does not, you may have progressed too quickly and must do more repetitions with just one name and one object.

Dear Andy,

I read your column faithfully.

My sister lives in North Carolina and sends us copies of Pet o’ Mine, which I really enjoy. I know what you are going to say in response to my question: Obedience School.

Before you say that, let me explain what is happening to Rolf. We live in California and have taken him to training school since he was a puppy. He has competed in obedience trials and has attained a CD level through AKC shows.

Problem: He recently turned aggressive/protective when people visit our home. He barks and has snapped – but no bites at this point in time. We now crate him when we expect company. In public, away from our home, he is friendly to strangers and shows absolutely no signs of aggression. He has just turned 2 years old. He is intact as we were planning on breeding him when he achieves his CDX degree, hopefully by next summer. Our trainer and our veterinarian (in California) tell us to neuter him as this always happens with mature Dobermans. I would be willing to have you evaluate Rolf but he only exhibits this behavior when he is home in San Diego.

K.C. in California

Dear K.C.,

Rolf needs to learn that you call the shots. He seems to understand this quite well while on the field as indicated by your success in the show ring. Skills that are learned for show or sport do not necessarily translate to other venues.

Fido may “come” when called in the show ring but will not “come” while walking in the woods. Dog training needs to be practiced in as many different places and situations as possible for a dog to be truly reliable everywhere. Rolf does not listen to you in the house – only in the show ring. Time to change that. Keep a lead on him when people visit. If Rolf does just one teeny behavior that indicates aggression/possessiveness, make Rolf do something like “down”, or “place.” He knows what those words mean. If he does not comply immediately a correction is in order – whatever type you have used in the past that has worked.

There are plenty of unneutered dogs out there that behave properly, learn some real life obedience and train for all situations.

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Dear Andy,

We just adopted a new dog from a private shelter. He looks like a mix between a collie and a shepherd. He’s about a year old, real friendly and is getting along fine with our family including our 13-year-old Pomeranian.

We plan on enrolling him in your obedience program after the holidays. In the meantime, we have a situation and need some advice. The dog’s name is Dufuss. This poor dog was given up by his original owners. That’s bad enough, but they also saddled him with a totally negative name. He is not a Dufuss. We want to call him Star – because that is what he is.

What is the best way to change a dog’s name? We want to do this right. Poor guy is adjusting to a new home after being dumped into a shelter. We don’t want to initiate too many changes but the Dufuss name just has to go.

A.R. in Lincolnton

Dear A.R.,

Poor Dufuss. Star is a far better name. I am assuming that the dog knows his current name is Dufuss and responds well to it. To help him learn his new name, link the two names together using the new name first and the old name second. So, for the training transition the new name will be “Star/Dufuss”.

When Star/Dufuss responds – be it a sit, a come or just a turn of his head – give him a treat and lots of sincere praise. “Star/ Dufuss! Come!” When he does, treat and praise. Not all treats are created equal. When training a new behavior, it is better to use a “jackpot” treat. A jackpot treat is something he doesn’t usually get like some cooked chicken or roast beef or a nice piece of cheese. Experiment and see what kind of treat really gets his attention. Sincere praise? Dogs know when you are really happy with them. A pat on the head and a ‘good dog’ in a bland voice doesn’t get it in dog talk. Let your dog know you are really happy with his behavior. You can tone down the praise after he learns his name is Star. When will he know? When you say “Star,” and he turns his head to look at you. Continue the treat and praise until he is completely reliable with the name Star. You can then phase out the treats sand continue the praise.

Dear Andy,

I have looked at your website and see that you train all kinds of detection dogs like drug dogs and bomb dogs. Can you tell me more about bed bug sniffing dogs? I have a winter home in Barbados. My staff is telling me that the house has bed bugs. I hired an exterminator to check it out. The exterminator used a bed bug sniffer dog that alerted on places throughout the house. The exterminating company tells me it will cost thousands to rid the house of the pests.

How do I know that the dog was properly trained and that there really is an infestation of bed bugs in my house? How reliable are these dogs?

J.K. in Huntersville

Dear J. K.,

This is a touchy subject. There are dog trainers all over – all different kinds and all different training techniques. And, like any other profession, there are excellent, good, mediocre, and bad dog trainers. While it is critical to properly choose the correct type of dog for a detection task, it is paramount that the dog is trained to be reliable in its scent detection work. A dog trainer does not attain the skills to do this overnight. Detection training is delicate work requiring exceptional timing, the ability to ‘read’ a dog, and a thorough knowledge of learning theory including classical and operant conditioning.

A detection dog of any type – one that detects explosives or one that detects bed bugs – is never going to be better than the trainer and the certification is only as good as the evaluator.

I advise you to do some research. Is the exterminating company trustworthy? How long ago was the dog tested and who tested the dog? Are there training logs and videos? Were the dog and handler tested by an outside agency? Beware of a company that tests its own dogs – there is a bit of a conflict there.

In most instances, you will be able to see signs of bed bugs. If you do, let the exterminator eliminate them. If you can get the house temperature up to 120 degrees that should do the trick. Now, here’s when a well trained bed bug detection dog comes in handy. You don’t usually need a dog to tell you there are bed bugs present – you need a dog to tell you they are gone. The dog does not alert on anything in your house when they are gone. My bed bug detection dogs do not alert on dead bed bugs, sheddings or feces. They provide a passive alert (sit and stare at scent source) when they smell a live bed bug.

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Dear Andy,

My boyfriend and I are from India. We are both strict vegetarians. We would like to get a puppy. Back home, we know of many people who have dogs and do not feed them meat. They seem to do just fine. We recently went to a pet store to look at different foods and could not find any that were vegetarian. The clerk told us dogs are carnivores and cannot exist on a vegetarian diet. What do you think?

Thank you,

D.S. in Davidson

Dear D.S.,

A dog is an amazingly resilient creature. I have seen fairly healthy looking homeless dogs living off the streets of third world countries. You can feed your dog a vegetarian diet, but I don’t think it is the best. Dogs evolved from wolves. Let’s take a look at a dog’s jaw and teeth The dog jaw operates on a simple hinge joint. It can open and close, but it cannot move sideways like ours. The sideways jaw movement enables us to grind our foods so it can mix with digestive-enzyme rich saliva and start the process of food digestion. The dog’s saliva does not contain digestive enzymes. The saliva is produced as a lubricant to moisten the meat, bones and fibers and get it down to the stomach where digestion begins. Our mouth saliva enables us to break down starches. Dogs can’t do this.

Take a look now at a dog’s teeth: They are meant to grip, tear and scrape meat from bones. Clearly, dogs are carnivores and a speciesspecific diet – meat and bones – is preferred. But dogs are also opportunistic and will eat just about anything to survive. If you do decide to feed your dog a meatless diet, I recommend that you visit the vet office regularly – about every six months at least – to have blood work performed to ensure your dog is receiving adequate nutrition. You may need to add specially- formulated supplements.

Dear Andy,

I have been watching TV shows of people doing dance routines with their dogs. It looks like fun but also a lot of work and commitment – not something I am into. What I would like to do is teach my dog to walk backwards. This might sound strange, but there are times – like when I am trying to open the car door or my front door – when I would like Roscoe to back up. Now, I pull him back and tell him to “Sit-Stay,” which he does. Yanking him back from a door is awkward, and I think a backup command would look a bit more elegant. Suggestions?

Thanks,

B.B. in Morganton

Dear B.B.,

I have two techniques. The first one works best if you use a walled area. A hallway in your house would be a good place. Leash your dog and face him. Your right shoulder and your dog’s left shoulder should touch the wall. Be prepared with an appropriate reward – his favorite toy or treat. With the leash and toy/treat held at your belly, walk into your dog while saying “Back Up.” As soon as your dog takes a step backward, reward. Continue the process and reward for more steps backwards. Eventually the dog will back up with just the command. Continue the training with intermittent toy/treat rewards until they are eliminated.

Another technique I like: Sit yourself down on an open leg chair – one the dog can get under. Put the chair against a wall. Throw a treat under the chair and tell the dog to get it. The dog will then have to back out from under the chair. As he does, give the command “Back Up” and reward him.

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Dear Andy,

Last week, a dog bit me. I sure would like to know if I did something wrong or if the dog was merely deranged.

Here’s what happened: I was meeting my friend at the local dog park. He wanted his dog to run off some steam and then, we were going out for lunch. I do not have a dog presently but have had many dogs in the past. I spot my friend who is already in the fenced dog park area; I wave and proceed through the gates. About 10 feet into the area, a large dog (don’t know what kind) comes trotting up to me wagging his tail. I knelt down to say ‘Hi,’ reached out my hand, and he chomped on my fingers – all the while wagging his tail! After he bit me, he took off. I found the owner who showed me the dog’s rabies tag. He stressed that his dog never did this before and asked ME what I did to his dog. Well, Andy, what did I do to his blasted dog? Oh, the bite was not that serious- more like a scrape.

Thanks,

P.L. in Huntersville

Dear P.L.,

Never assume that a wagging tail means a dog is friendly. My trained personal protection dogs wag their tails madly just before they attack when commanded. It isn’t wise to bend down to pet a strange dog. I also must question if this was truly a bite or was more of a scrape from a dog that wanted to engage in play? You should have ignored the dog and gone over to meet your friend. By the way, all dog owners say their dog never ___________ before! (Fill in the blank: The dog never bit, growled, disobeyed, peed, chewed. You name it; I’ve heard them all.)

Dear Andy,

I share my home with a Fox Terrier. Sparky is six years old, and he is devoted to me. Last week, while visiting the shelter, I fell in love with a medium sized mutt. He is now in foster care recovering from his neuter surgery. I will be bringing him home next week. I have received all kinds of advice about how to introduce the new guy to Sparky and our home. I really want this to work out. Some of the advice I have received is conflicting. Some say to let them get to know each other while on leashes while other people say introduce them in a neutral territory and others say the exact opposite. I will do what you advise.

Thank you,

G.P. in Taylorsville

Dear G.P.,

Before you take advice from people, make sure that person is a dog trainer.

Go to a neutral area, where neither dog has been. The area should be distraction free – no other dogs or kids or traffic. Find a nice quiet place. This place should have a chain link fence intersecting the area (or another type of fence that separates the dogs but allows them to see each other through it). Maybe a friend’s fenced in backyard if their neighbor allows use of their adjacent backyard.

Let the introductions begin, with each dog on opposite sides of the fence. Allow the dogs to freely sniff and sort things out. If all goes well, they should be running up and down the fence playing. Watch their body language for signs of aggression. If you do not know how to read a dog’s body language, you should learn. There are books, DVDs and dog trainers that can instruct you. If no aggression postures are noted, put a leash on each dog and see if they can interact nicely without a fence between them. If there is a problem, you and a helper can pull them apart.

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Dear Andy,

Last year I adopted Trudi, a beautiful Golden Retriever mix. We have gone to obedience school and she has been a good learner despite my own ineptness – Trudi is my first dog. I bought a little book about teaching your dog tricks. It’s been a lot of fun and Trudi now knows how to sit up and beg, roll over, crawl, play dead and shake. The problem I have encountered is with the shake hand/ paw. Trudi has become compulsive about the shake. She comes up to me or any other person either sitting down or standing and puts her foot on their leg in an attempt to shake. I think she is looking for a treat and using the shake to get food. I have tried ignoring her, but she just continues and eventually adds whining. It is very annoying.

Please help.

Thank you,

M.B. In Huntersville

Dear M.B.,

No more pet tricks. Pet tricks can be fun but your dog must know obedience first. Now you must undo what the dog has learned. Ignoring the behavior will work in about a year or two. I know a faster method. When the dog offers her paw, immediately give her the Down/Stay command. (If she is not immediately compliant with the Down/Stay command you should brush up on overall obedience). After a minute or so, release her from the Down/ Stay. In a day or two she should be fine. And in the future – be careful what you wish for.

Dear Andy,

I have two collies, a male and a female. They have been together for three years and get along just fine – on walks, in the yard, with other dogs, etc. The only time they do not get along is when someone knocks at the door. When this happens, it is pure chaos. I can deal with the barking, but it gets worse. If I don’t get to the door quickly enough, the dogs begin fighting, growling, snapping, and snarling. They seem to change into demons when they get to the doorway. I can usually break them up and get them into their crates, but I fear one day I’m going to get bitten. Neither collie has suffered from any serious wounds, just scratches, but I don’t want this to escalate. I want to end it.

Thanks,

V.S. in Mooresville

Dear V.S.,

Just about any dog behavior problem can be easily solved if the dog is compliant in basic obedience commands. This is an easy problem to fix. When the house is nice and quiet and you are not expecting any visitors knocking on the door, teach the “Place” command. Individually. Put one dog up in a crate while you train the other dog and then switch. If you have never worked with a dog trainer and if your dogs have never learned basic obedience you may have some problems with compliance. The dogs have never really been asked to do anything consistently and have done things their way for a long time. The dogs may not even respect your bidding. You may need professional assistance from a dog trainer who has proven success.

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Dear Andy,

We have a 6-month-old spaniel mix named Lovey. The kids think it’s fun to toss Lovey treats as she is a very good catcher. I think that a development of all this fun is the creation of a food-snatching, finger-chomping monster. Now, when I hand her a treat I find myself counting my fingers when I am done. She has become as avid as a snapping turtle. How can I get her to politely take treats from my hand? She is not food aggressive as I can take a bone away from her and put my hand right into her food bowl with no problems. I think my kids did this to her so it is a now game for her. What can I do?

Thank you,

G.M. in Conover

Dear G.M.,

Tell your children to stop throwing food to the dog. Then, train Lovey to be nicer about treats. Put a leash on Lovey. Put your thumb over a treat while saying “Easy.” If Lovey attempts to chomp use a leash correction and tell her “Easy.” When Lovey licks your finger give her the treat and say “Good Girl.” She will soon learn that a gentle touch gets the treat.

Dear Andy,

We just purchased an American Staffordshire Terrier. He’s a smart little guy and is fitting in very well with our family. Last weekend we went to a dog-pulling competition and were surprised to see that many of the successful competitors were Bully breeds, capable of pulling up to more than 90 times their own body weight. We think Austin would enjoy this but our neighbor says it’s cruel. The dogs we saw looked pretty happy. What do you think? Any training tips?

Thanks,

R. J. in Mooresville

Dear R.J.,

I have absolutely no training in this dog sport. But, I do know that Bully breeds LOVE to work. They have tremendous strength and like to flex those muscles. Pulling events are like body building and conditioning for dogs. I would suggest you speak to some of the handlers of these super athletic muscle dogs and learn more about the sport. Seek out people you like and who have happy dogs. Be aware that some dog-fighting thugs do use pulling as a means to condition their fighting dogs.

Dear Andy,

Next month, we will be bringing home a German shepherd puppy. We have several acres and are planning on having a chain link fence type kennel constructed so the dog can spend days outside while we are at work. The dog will be in the house when we are home. We have spoken with several different contractors who have all recommended various flooring options – mostly poured concrete or paving stones with a specially prepared bed for absorption and odor considerations. What do you recommend? We live in the mountains outside of Asheville and do have freezing temperatures at times.

Thanks,

L.B. in Asheville

Dear L.B., The only way to really clean concrete or paving stone surfaces is with a hose and disinfectants. If you try this in the winter during freezing temperatures, hosing attempts will result in a layer of ice. Your dogs will be slipping and sliding and your pens will still not be clean especially when things thaw. I like pea gravel – a nice thick layer about 6 to 8 inches thick. It’s a real nice surface for dog feet and actually provides a healthy workout for the foot and leg joints – almost like walking on beach sand does for us. Clean ups are easy. It provides natural drainage. It’s not that expensive.

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Dear Andy,

I just moved into my boyfriend’s beautiful condo in Ashville. He had it professionally decorated. Everything is brand new, or a prized antique, and it is all very expensive. My dog Bruiser, a 100-pound mutt, also moved in. Bruiser had free run of my old rental house that was furnished with equally old furniture. Bruiser was allowed to rest his bones on any furniture he wanted. Now he assumes he can park his butt on my boyfriend’s suede sofa. This is not working out and has led to some arguments. How can I train Bruiser that his past behavior is no longer allowed in his new posh digs?

Thank you,

S.W. in Hickory

Dear S.W.,

It sounds like Bruiser has never had any limitations, expectations or training. I would highly recommend obedience training so that he learns what is expected of him. But, you can start immediate training to teach him to avoid furniture.

Ask your boyfriend to go shopping with you and buy Bruiser a real nice bed. You may want to buy several beds for different rooms if the condo is large and Bruiser has taken to lounging on furniture throughout the dwelling. Put some of Bruiser’s favorite chew toys in his bed/beds. Kongs stuffed with food and frozen go a long way in keeping a dog entertained. Attach a short lead to Bruiser’s collar. If he goes on the furniture, lead him off and bring him to his own bed. Eventually, he will learn to use his own furniture.

Dear Andy,

Two weeks ago, my German shepherd dog ripped out his toenail. The vet put him on antibiotics. About a week later while walking Bear, I met up with a neighbor whose 5-year-old granddaughter was visiting. She wanted to pet Bear. I gave her some treats and showed her how to offer them in her open palm. Bear took them politely. She then put her hand out to pet him. Bear growled and went for her face. Fortunately, he did not have time to close his mouth because I pulled him back with his leash, but his teeth did make contact and the child’s face was scraped. No stitches were needed. The grandmother was more understanding than I would have been. She said that this is the third time that a dog has bitten the child. Bear is 2 years old and has never shown any signs of aggression to people or dogs. Should I neuter him? Should I put him down? Will this get worse? Was it my fault because I took him out when he was on medications and possibly not fully healed?

Thanks,

M.C. in Huntersville

Dear M.C.,

Without meeting Bear in person, I cannot make an evaluation concerning his temperament. I can only base my conclusions upon your observations. You say that Bear has never shown any signs of aggression. And, you say that this child has been bitten three times. That’s a lot of bites for a very young child. I have met people that dogs just don’t like. I believe that there are some people that just give off bad vibes to dogs – some kind of smell? A chemical imbalance? An illness? I don’t know, and I have not seen any studies concerning this phenomenon. But I suspect this may be the case. Some people have strange reactions to antibiotics so there is that possibility in Bear’s case. Let Bear heal and see what his reactions are to other children – in a carefully controlled environment. Keep him away from the child that was bitten.

Dear Andy,

We adopted Ralph from the shelter last month. We have been told that he is a Pointer mix and is about 2 years old. We enrolled him in a group training course. The trainer uses positive reinforcement by using either treats, toys, or verbal praise. Ralph doesn’t seem to care about any reward. I offer him food – good stuff too like chicken or cheese – and he ignores it or takes it in his mouth and drops it. He has no interest in any of the toys I have bought him. If I throw a ball, he ignores it. I watch other people pet their dogs and say “Good dog!” and their dogs look happy. Ralph is expressionless. What’s wrong with him?

Thank you,

R.S. in Morganton

Dear R.S.,

Since Ralph is an adopted dog, you do not have a history of what went on with his life for the past few years. You’ve only had him a month, and he may have been in a kennel/isolation situation for some time. Want a reaction from Ralph? Don’t feed him for three days before class. Use high value food treats for his reward. You will get complete and total attention and reaction from Ralph. In future training sessions, do not feed the day of training. Eventually, he should respond to you and then you can return to a normal feeding schedule and learn how to wean from food treats. If you have not done so already Ralph should have a complete medical examination including blood work.

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Dear Andy, We have a five-month-old German shepherd dog named Bailey. We were told by the breeder to buy a crate, as it would help with house breaking and general destructive chewing while he is unattended. We keep the crate door open and find that he likes to go in his crate to take a nap. He definitely considers it his den. Lately, he has taken to stealing items and hiding them in his crate – like shoes, socks, pot holders, books, the TV clicker – whatever he gets into his sneaky big mouth. Initially we thought this was amusing. However, now when we try to retrieve our possessions he growls and has begun to snap. I don’t want to hit him, nor do I want to take away his ‘safe haven.’ What did I do wrong with this crate business, and how can I correct the error of my ways? He has had puppy obedience classes and will begin adult classes next month. If I call him to come out of his crate, he will dart out with his coveted stolen article in his mouth and runs from me if I try to get it out of his mouth. This has turned into a marvelous game of tag – for him that is.

Thank you,

D.A. in Huntersville

Dear D.A.,

I will give you a technique to use to solve your immediate problem. However, Bailey needs to go back to obedience class immediately. There is not much difference between puppy obedience and adult obedience. Training is training and sit means sit and stay means stay, and drop it means drop it. Dogs do get more reliable with age but if training is not continued, don’t expect your dog to be 100% compliant. Training never really stops. Now, for the crate issue: If you have a plastic crate, take the top off. If it is a metal crate, flip open the top. Attach a short tab-type lead to Bailey’s collar. When he goes into his crate with a stolen item, you can them grab the leash and lead him out of the crate – no battles – no stress – no injuries. Then, teach Bailey an out/leave it/ drop it command. When he drops the object, reward. If he growls, administer a leash correction.

Dear Andy,

My Irish Setter, Floyd, was given up because he was gun shy. He’s a very sweet boy and not at all stupid as I was told setters can be. The only problem we have is his fear of thunder. Even before a storm approaches, he starts panting and pacing. When the storm is overhead he actually shakes all over, drools and is in full-blown panic mode. I put him up in his crate if I am home, but last week, there was storm while I was at work. He jumped out the window, shattered the glass and received a pretty substantial laceration. Fortunately the storm did not last long and my neighbor was able to catch him. What can I do to help Floyd’s fears?

Thank you,

T.E. in Cornelius

Dear T.E.,

There are a lot of things you can do to make Floyd more comfortable with storms. He will probably never wag his tail at the approach of a storm, but you can provide some ease. It does help to diffuse the noise of thunder by leaving on the television or a radio. Heavy shades, blinds or drapes can also muffle outdoor sounds. Create a safe haven for Floyd. Cover his crate with blankets and put a comfy pillow inside. This again helps to muffle sounds and creates a safe den area. Tell him ‘crate’ and then lead him into it. Throw him some treats, a bone, or a food -stuffed frozen Kong. When you know a storm is approaching give him the ‘crate’ command. Be aware that your own anxiety may be influencing Floyd. When you proceed with this training stay upbeat and confident. After some time, he will learn the command.

There are CDs of storm noises available. Use these to desensitize Floyd, again telling him ‘crate’ when you start the CD. Begin desensitizing in small increments and increase duration based upon Floyd’s responses.

There are also some products that are designed for dog phobias. There is a product called Thunder Shirt. The manufacturers claim that it eliminates electrostatic conditions associated with thunderstorms. They claim it is effective in 85% of storm phobia cases, and it comes with a 45-day guarantee. So, buy it during storm season. www.Thundershirt.com Also available is D.A.P. – Dog Appeasing Pheromone – it is available as a diffuser that plugs into the wall or as a spray to put on a cloth collar or bandana. Most high-end pet stores carry this as well as the Internet.

Oil of lavender is said to have a calming effect on dogs. Why not? It smells nice and you can put a few drops on Floyd’s bedding.

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